Remembering Greg Noll: The "Da Bull" Of Big Wave Surfing

Was there a surfer who not only rode the biggest waves but also helped define the sport of surfing itself? Greg Noll, known as "Da Bull," was that man, a true pioneer who pushed the boundaries of what was thought possible in the world of surfing.

Greg Noll, a name synonymous with courage, skill, and a larger-than-life personality, passed away on Monday, June 28, 2021, in Crescent City, California, a picturesque coastal town where he had made his home. His death, at the age of 84, was attributed to natural causes, leaving behind a legacy etched in the annals of surfing history. Born Greg Lawhead in San Diego on February 11, 1937, he later adopted the surname of his stepfather, Ash Noll. Noll's impact on the sport, and the culture surrounding it, remains undeniable, a testament to his unique combination of athleticism and charisma. He was more than just a surfer; he was an icon, a shaper, and a symbol of a bygone era in surfing, an era where the pursuit of the perfect wave was driven by raw passion and a fearless spirit.

Noll's journey began in San Diego, California, where he was born as Greg Lawhead. At the age of three, he moved to Manhattan Beach, where he began to develop a lifelong passion for the ocean. By the 1950s and 60s, he had become a central figure in the burgeoning sport of surfing, renowned for his ability to conquer waves that seemed insurmountable. He was, in essence, a trailblazer, pushing the boundaries of what was considered possible. His contemporaries remember his sheer determination and his ability to thrive in the face of monumental conditions.

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The legendary surfer's daring exploits were most notably displayed in Hawaii. He was one of the first to ride the monstrous waves of Waimea Bay, etching his name into surfing history as one of the sports true pioneers. He also bravely paddled out at Banzai Pipeline and Makaha, further demonstrating his versatility and unwavering commitment to tackling the world's most formidable waves. His impact wasn't limited to the water. Greg also moved back to California and worked as an LA County Lifeguard. His understanding of the ocean was profound, and he continued to deepen this connection through his work and passion for paddleboarding.

Noll's influence extended beyond his surfing prowess; he was also a master shaper of surfboards. In an era when surfboards were evolving rapidly, he hand-shaped his own boards, including the iconic "Hawaiian Gun," designed to handle the enormous power of the waves he pursued. In the 1960s, one of these custom-made boards would cost around $50 a significant investment at the time, yet a testament to their quality and the demand for Noll's craftsmanship. Of course, Noll rode his own handshapes, a fact that speaks volumes about his dedication and the way that he approached the entire sport. This also highlights a time where surfing was far more than a sport; it was a craft, and a lifestyle. One particularly iconic shape was the Greg Noll Miki Dora Da Cat longboard shaped in 1966, featuring beautiful red panels and the signature Da Cat single fin. A testament to the collaborative spirit of the era, and an example of how artists were able to express their style across multiple mediums.

Noll's presence extended beyond the surf, capturing the imagination of the public through his appearances in surf films such as "Search for Surf" and "Ride the Wild Surf." These films helped to popularize surfing and to introduce the sport to a wider audience. Moreover, he became a symbol of the surfing lifestyle a lifestyle that embraces the ocean, adventure, and a unique sense of freedom. His impact resonated far beyond the coastlines.

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His legend grew with each passing year. As "Da Bull," his nickname reflected his powerful physique, his fearless approach to the ocean, and his gregarious personality, which made him a beloved figure both in and out of the water. His charisma and stories were as memorable as his surfing feats.

Noll's passing brought sadness to the surfing community, but also served as a reminder of his incredible impact. He was a true icon of the sport, a man who, through his bravery, skill, and personality, helped to shape the very essence of surfing. As a tribute to his achievements, Noll was inducted into San Pedro's Sportswalk to the Waterfront in 2009, joining other athletes, coaches, and broadcasters in recognition of his contributions.

In an era when surfing was still evolving, Greg Noll was a central figure. He combined a gregarious, outsized personality with the courage and skill to ride bigger, more powerful waves than anyone had ever attempted. He leaves behind a legacy that continues to inspire surfers and ocean enthusiasts worldwide. The world of surfing will forever remember the man who wasn't just a surfer, but a legend, a pioneer, and a true embodiment of the surfing spirit.